Bra Fitting 101
How are you doing with your new year’s resolutions? A few friends of mine made a new year’s resolution to completely revamp their undergarment line up. Comments were made like, “ It’s been years since I bought a new bra, I think I need to step up my game.” Chances are if it has been a long time since you have purchased a bra, you should get measured and fitted for a bra. I’ve also had several clients say to me, “Yeah, I really should get measured for a bra.” I think most women know, or rather imagine, the benefits for getting properly measured and fit for a bra. However, it is an afterthought because bras aren’t something that are outwardly facing to the public. We tend to put it off and keep buying bras that we think are the correct size. Getting measured and fit for a bra has its benefits. A bra that fits will lift you up and give you support allowing your clothes to look better. To learn more about what a bra fitting entails, I contacted Stephanie, the owner of Le Bustiere on 18th Street, NW in the Adams Morgan neighborhood of DC. She was so helpful and kind!!
So what are the basics for bra fitting?
First, your trained stylist will take the band measurement. The band measurement is the circumference of your ribcage taken at the top of your ribs. This band measurement gives the circumference without breast tissue. Once you have this number, you round up two (i.e. I was 28”, so we rounded up to 30”). Normally this ranges from 32-36 inches.
Second, they will take your cup measurement. A cup size is measurement of the breast tissue minus the circumference of the band. This measurement is taken across the fullest part of your chest; in line with the nipples. Once you have this measurement (i.e. 33 inches), you subtract it from the band measurement (i.e. 30) and get the difference (33”-30”=3”). The difference between these two measurements correlates with the cup size: 1”=A; 2”=B; 3”=C; 4”=D; 5”=E; etc.
Sizing can be a bit tricky because you can be a size B and a size C based on brand. Once you know your bra size (band and cup size) you could stay within a close size range. The general rule is that If you go up in band size you have to go down in cup size. For example if you measure to be a 30 C, you can go up a band width and likely fit into a 32 B. Again, since there is variation between brands, it is always good to try the bra on.
How should a bra fit?
Now that you have the basics of how to be measured for a bra, you need to consider how the bra should fit. When you put a bra on, you want to hook it on the first hook. As time goes on the elastic will become loose, allowing you to use the next hook. In the front, the cups should sit flat against your chest, with no space between you and the cup. When putting on your bra you want as much of the breast to fit into the cup, not off to the side; leaning forward at your waist when putting your bra on is helpful. Also, once you have your bra on, use your hand to move the tissue into the cup to ensure the best fit and silhouette once you are clothed.
Triangle straps are great for those with narrow shoulders
Shoulder: The straps should feel snug, and sit under the clavicle bone on your back. The straps should be adjusted to your shoulder size but not too tight; you don’t want to make an indentation. Shoulder placement of the strap should be on the shoulder bone, not closer to the neck. For those with narrow shoulders, bras with a front triangle size fabric with the “shoulder strap” in the back will help reduce straps from slipping.
Brands: Brands vary widely, so you have to try them on. In one brand you may be a B cup while in another brand you are a C cup. Again, remember the principle: if you go up a band size, you must go down a cup size. If I am a 30C, I can also possibly fit into a 32B in some brands.
Underwire Bras: Underwire bras get a “bad rap” for being uncomfortable. When an underwire bra fits well, it not only gives you more lift and support but it is comfortable.
Shape: Breasts have different shapes due to varying amounts and placements of tissue. For instance, if your breast tissue is mainly concentrated along the bottom portion of the breast, you may have a more ‘shallow’ chest and a demi bra with a support wire may work well for you. In contrast, if your tissue was more evenly distributed you would do well in a bra that gives you full coverage. You should expect your bra fitter to tell you which types of bras provide the needed coverage and support right for you.
Demi bras are great for tissue concentrated in the lower portion of the breast
Bras can also cause some concern of whether there is “back fat/ roles” due to the elastic band along the back. Primarily, bulging shouldn’t occur if the bra fits correctly, resting below the scapula. If you experience a little bulging, that is to be expected when elastic is pressed into the skin, but if the bra fits correctly and you are still experiencing bulge, consider getting a bra with a wider elastic band.
When is a good time to get fitted? It’s important to take notice on how your bra fits: Is it snug? Are the straps digging in your shoulder? Is your flesh bulging around the elastic in the back of the bra? Does the outline of the bra show through your top? If you’ve noticed any of these, you probably need to get a bra fitting.
Many of us who have lost or gained weight tend to purchase new clothes but neglect to get measured for new bras. A fluctuation in weight is a key time to get yourself measured as it is certain your bra size has changed too. After you’ve had a baby and you are no longer breast feeding is also a good time to get fitted.
Taking the time to find out your true bra size; it is definitely worth it. It is also worth it to spend a little bit more on bras that fit appropriately. Good quality bras will last you awhile and your cost per wear will be in your favor. A well fitting bra (well all undergarments really) can make a difference between a great outfit looking great and a great outfit looking poorly fitted. If you are in the DC area, check out Le Bustiere. Their selection is wide for both sizes and variety of beautiful bras and lingerie. They also cater to those of us that are outliers on the size spectrum, offering both smaller and bigger bra sizes!
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